I needed to get away because staying at home for too long sometimes saddens me due to the memories. However, revisiting some of the places my husband and I visited together is uplifting.
My last trip was on the P&O Azura, around the Canary Islands. However, one of our favourite places to visit is Cornwall, particularly St Ives. In my opinion, it has everything. It’s like a beautiful story picture book. It has wonderful golden sandy beaches, art galleries on every corner, pretty tea shops, gift shops and restaurants. Even a train that glides into St Ives to an old-fashioned railway station. It is a place that gets into your heart. Certainly, for me, it drags me back year on year. This time on my own.
Depending on where you are coming from, it can be a long drive, for me almost six hours, taking into account the roadworks. I stopped overnight in Exeter, as that's about halfway. I’d booked myself into a hotel for the night and had dinner and breakfast.
I actually quite like being on my own, it can be balancing to get away from life’s pressures. In a heartbeat, I’d have my husband back, but that's not going to happen.
I ordered myself a passion fruit martini cocktail and enjoyed the moment. I'm getting so many moments of “You deserve it, have it!”
I sat there on my own and listened to the excitable chatter. So many families had done what I had done and stopped halfway. Many heading for holiday resorts in Devon and Cornwall. I stayed at the Premier Inn for easy access from the motorway. The hotel was spotless, and a restaurant, Brewers Fayre, is next door.
Refreshed the next morning, I continued my journey to St Ives. If you know St Ives, you’ll know it consists of little narrow streets, with mainly cobbles. It was my nightmare to think what would I do if I drove the wrong way and ended up having to reverse back into the throng of holidaymakers.
On a previous trip, I’d seen a family stuck down a single-track cobbled street. I can remember the look on the driver's face as his four-wheel drive was almost wedged down a side street. Hence I’d chosen a hotel with valet parking, and the lady on the sat nav did a good job.
Wooo, valet parking, sounds posh, but I did it for my sanity, as parking in St Ives can be challenging. I was booked into the Harbour Hotel overlooking Porthminster Beach.
I hadn't splashed out for a sea view room, excuse the pun, but even a single room with a street view was quite expensive. However, wander down to the bar or terrace, and the views are fabulous. Breakfast was an array of everything you could think of. Fresh coffee, served in a silver pot, not from a machine. Crisp white linen napkins, silver cutlery, topped off with a window seat overlooking the sea. I tried to think of a word to summon up my euphoric feelings about this place. Just wondrous will have to do.
This hotel overlooks Porthminster Beach, which is the nearest beach to the train station. From the hotel, wander down a very lush scented walkway, under a tunnel, some steps, and you will reach the beach. The sun was shining, and the crowds hadn’t arrived yet. Porthminster Beach has two cafes, water sports, and is only a short walk to St Ives town. It’s a wonderful resource for the area and the rest of Cornwall.
For me, being an art lover and a hobby artist myself, I’m drawn, again, no pun intended, to the many galleries here, too many to mention. I spent a pleasant day going from one to another.
One I always visit is Steve Crossley. Steve was originally a fisherman, and his painting was only a hobby. Gradually he painted more and now has a gallery called the Two Seasons. Steve's work is semi-abstract and mainly inspired by the St Ives landscape. His work tends to be large and is in many private collections throughout the USA and Europe.
I had my yearly chat to ask how's it going and what's selling. All very positive. I checked out his latest work, bought a few cards and said, “See you next year,” and then proceeded to the St Ives Tate gallery.
The Tate overlooks Porthmeor Beach. There was a vibrant exhibition by the Casablanca Art School, which is on until January 2024. Very different, mostly abstract. A new art waive derived from Arab and Moroccan influences. Also featured is the permanent collection of artists from 100 years associated with West Cornwall. After wandering for an hour, I made use of their wonderful cafe on the fourth floor before walking the cobbled streets up to the Barbara Hepworth museum.
Barbara Hepworth came to St Ives at the start of the war in 1939. There is a story to wander through about her life before you mount the stairs to the garden. Here you’ll find sculptures and bronzes. Unfortunately, I suffered a deluge of rain, so I couldn't look around properly, but it interested me enough to make sure I will return next year.
Tickets can be purchased at the door or through The Tate.
St Ives takes its name from St la, the daughter of an Irish chieftain. In the 5th or 6th century, she arrived in Cornwall from Ireland on a leaf.
It was really raining, so I dashed into the St Ives museum. It’s described as a must-see treasure trove for every visitor. There are stories around every corner. Shipwrecks, tales of incredible bravery, many nautical items, fishing, farming and artworks. A fascinating place.
The beginning of the museum goes back to 1920, formed by a group of locals, the St Ives Old Cornwall Society. Their motto was “Gather ye the fragments that are left, that nothing be lost.” I enjoyed spending my time here. Check out the very informative website, it gives you an illuminating glimpse of the history of St Ives and its people.
This place has such an effect on me. Only here one day, and already I’m drinking lemongrass and ginger tea and wearing fish dangly earrings. You could succumb to the many pasty shops, Cornish cream teas, or really delicious fish and chips.
There are many restaurants here, all serving excellent food. One of my favourites is the farm shop and restaurant Trevaskis Farm, a little outside St Ives, but worth the trip as it sells and serves wonderful fresh food from the farm and locally caught fish.
There’s also the Farmers Market in St Ives every Thursday at the Guildhall. For lunch, I opted for fresh caught Hake at The Loft. This restaurant is away from the seafront and is located in the artist's quarter. The food was delicious. After my meal, I took my time checking out the many artists and jewellers working here, below the restaurant.
I slowly wandered back towards my hotel and stopped and bought a delicious Cornish ice cream. I sat on the same bench where my husband and I had sat, enjoying ice cream and the view not that long ago. At the same time, keeping an eye out for the pesky seagulls. If you were lucky and the tide was in, quite often, the seals would swim into the bay, as they did on that remembered day.
I think next year I will travel by train. I did a random check on The Trainline to see if it was possible. It’s a long journey, on the outbound, 6 hours, with changes at Reading and Penzance, travelling from Southampton. I came up with a price of £137 standard ticket and £213 first class return, with a similar time span for the return. So I would definitely consider doing that, as the overnight hotel in Exeter and the petrol compares very well financially, and minimum stress.
St Ives station was opened in 1877 to enable the development of tourism, marketing the area as the Cornish Riviera. Many artists also made the pilgrimage to the area to capture the famous clarity of the pink light.
If you do come to St Ives by car, I’d recommend parking at the Park and Ride and coming in on the train. A wonderful scenic short ride along the coast from St Erth. Details can be found on National Rail.
I had my car with me, but I noted there was a company within the town called A1 Cars, supplying taxis and small group tours to other tourist attractions within Cornwall. Botallack Mine, Sennen Cove, The Minack Theatre, and The Eden Project, to name a few. There is also the open-top bus which does an extensive route from St Ives to Lands End.
Making the most of my last few days, and the good weather, I decided to go to St Michael's Mount.
About a twenty-five minute drive across to the southern coast of Cornwall, you will find St Michaels Mount. It’s a popular destination, but visitors have varied reasons for their visit. It could be to absorb the spiritual energies, take a breath and immerse yourself in the atmosphere, or just have a great day out crossing the causeway at low tide or on a short ferry trip.
From as far back as 495 AD, there are stories of ships and seafarers being guided by the apparition of St Michael. The patron saint of fishermen. There are tales of miracles from 1262 and Cornish legends about a giant and mermaids. There is a rich history of conquests. The first beacon was lit here to warn Elizabeth I that the Armada was coming.
Unbelievable to think we have all that history beneath our feet, and to get some of the information, we can scan the QR code on our phones at the Pilgrim steps. What would the monks think of that? Magic, or a miracle, maybe.
You have to be reasonably fit to climb the many steps up to the castle. They are mostly cobbled, but there are a few places to sit and rest on the way.
Once reaching the castle, there is the usual array of gift shops and cafes for refreshments. The gardens are also worth a visit, but it’s closed in the winter.
After crossing over at high tide on the ferry, it was a pleasant walk back along the cobbled causeway at low tide, and back to my car. It was a wonderful day, but was very busy, as my trip was during school holidays.
Following a westerly direction, you will reach Lands End.
A great day out, easy parking, something for everyone. The area has been developed recently to include a hotel, play areas, and themed activities for children. Cafes, a gift shop and a farm. I expected it to be a little tacky, but I was pleasantly surprised. It has been done sympathetically to the area. There are plenty of getaways from all spots and some challenging walks.
It’s stunning here. A unique location at the most western point in Cornwall. A very rugged coastline. It was a beautiful day, and the waves were crashing on the rocks below. There’s a map displayed on one of the cliffs featuring the 130 shipwrecks immediately around the area. There were many more, unrecorded. It is reported there are 3000 around the Cornish coast. The SS Torrey Canyon was the most devastating environmentally for the area, spilling 120,000 tons of crude oil in 1967.
There are stories about people who have made the journey from Lands End to John O Groats, or vice versa, whether walking, cycling or their chosen means. One of the most recent was Speedo Mick. His Speedos are pinned to the wall in recognition of the 800-mile walk he did in his Speedos. He has done many challenges to raise money for charities that support mental health and disadvantaged homeless and young people. Raising over one million pounds.
There are four fun attractions at Lands End to keep the children occupied. The Lost Treasure of Lyonesse, a golf adventure, a Wallace and Gromit experience, a Jolly Roger 4D film experience and a Green farm. This is where there are not only animals to see but pottery for the children and an artist's studio.
You’ll also see the odd swashbuckling pirate, though the one I saw was on a lunch break, with a burger and chips and a fizzy drink. Not very yo ho ho, argh.
Don’t let the attractions put you off if you are a get-back-to-nature type. It’s a beautiful area with a wonderful coastal landscape. Check out the Land's End website for ticket prices and information.
I made my way back towards St Ives but went on to just past St Ives to an area called Hayle. Here I have some very fond memories. The beaches are vast, backed by sandy dunes. Along this coast, it leads further onto Godrevy lighthouse and National Trust land. Here if you walk around the headland, you can see the pods of seals basking on the rocks and beaches.
I had one last visit to our favourite beach and remembered the many wonderful times we had here. My husband used to beach cast as the sun was setting, preferably on a high tide. He never caught anything, but it was always a wonderful evening.
Along the beautiful coast, there are mostly caravan sites nestled amongst the sand dunes. The main one is Haven Rivière Sands, Holiday Park. We stayed here many times. Quite a busy site but a wonderful location with a view over the bay to St Ives. There are quieter sites further along the coast, but not so easy beach access. We also stayed at Atlantic Coast Holiday Park, which had large lodges with jacuzzis.
I hope you've enjoyed the brief look at one of my favoured places in the UK, if not in the world. I feel very safe here, everyone is very welcoming. Sitting at a table on your own or at a bar, I felt very comfortable and can't wait to return. There’s still plenty left to see and do, so until next time.
Time to pack up and go home.
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